How to Use a Concealed Zip Foot
A concealed (or invisible) zip foot is designed to stitch close to the zip teeth while keeping the zip hidden inside the seam, giving garments a professional finish.
- Concealed (invisible) zip foot - Make sure its the correct fitting foot for your machine
- Concealed zip
- Matching thread (we recommend Gütermann for the best results, or Coats Moon as a great value alternative)
- Sewing machine
- Pins or fabric clips
- Iron
We also recommend using a quality sewing machine needle such as Schmetz or Organ, ensuring you select the correct needle type and size for your fabric. A fresh, sharp needle will help produce neat, even stitches.
Step 1 – Prepare the Fabric
- Sew the garment seam only up to the point where the zip will begin.
- Press the seam allowances open.
- Finish the raw edges if required.
Step 2 – Press the Zip
Before sewing, gently press the zip coils open using a warm (not hot) iron. This makes it much easier to stitch close to the teeth and achieve a truly concealed finish.
Step 3 – Attach the Concealed Zip Foot
Fit the concealed zip foot to your sewing machine.
The grooves underneath the foot are designed to guide the zip coils while the needle stitches close beside them.
Step 4 – Sew the First Side
- Open the zip fully.
- Place the right-hand side of the zip onto the right side of the fabric, right sides together.
- Align the edge of the zip tape with the fabric edge.
- Position the zip coil into the correct groove on the foot.
- Start sewing from the top of the zip and sew straight down as far as possible.
Avoid pulling the fabric or zip—allow the sewing machine to feed everything evenly.
Step 5 – Sew the Second Side
- Close the zip to check the first side is straight.
- Open it again.
- Pin the second side of the zip to the opposite fabric edge, ensuring both sides line up evenly.
- Sew from the top down using the opposite groove on the concealed zip foot.
Step 6 – Finish the Seam
Once both sides are attached:
- Close the zip and check the alignment.
- Replace the concealed zip foot with your standard zipper or regular foot.
- Sew the remainder of the seam below the zip, starting as close to the previous stitching as possible.
Top Tips
- Always test on a scrap piece of fabric first.
- Sew slowly for the most accurate results.
- Press the finished zip gently for a professional appearance.
- Use a matching thread colour so the stitching blends into your project.
- Don't force the needle too close to the zip teeth, as this can make the zip difficult to open and close.
- If your machine allows, move the needle position slightly to achieve the closest stitch without hitting the foot.
A concealed zip foot is ideal for dresses, skirts, cushions, evening wear and home furnishing projects where you want the zip to remain almost completely invisible once the garment or project is finished.